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Post by thehatghost on May 19, 2021 23:28:44 GMT
Hello Everyone, Here's a pretty easy project for the Braedboard, which I've found helpful in understanding OpAmps, ac / dc coupling, and virtual grounding . It's a simple inverting audio amplifier ( at least that's what I think it is?) with a gain of two, created using the pieces from the braedboard kit. It's based off of circuit diagrams in Ray Wilson's excellent book Make: Analogue Synthesizers. I've found that it's useful for amplifying the triangle wave from the VCO, but seems to act really weird when used for anything else. (I also have to occasionally "jump start" it by touching the input capacitor haha!) . Any suggestions or help on how to make it a better project would be appreciated. It doesn't feel done but I figured I would post it anyways in the hope that it might turn into something or might be useful to someone else.
Edit: Upon further review I'm not exactly sure what the Triangle buddy is, but I do know it's a weird misinterpretation of some op amp circuits and sounds pretty good with the Triangle wave.
Edit: The Triangle buddy is now a proper Inverting Buffer / Amplifier, see diagram later on in the thread.
Thanks!
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Post by admin on May 20, 2021 0:39:47 GMT
Hi thehatghost, this is really cool! I would love to see more of these little Braedboard utility projects here on the forum!
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Post by keurslagerkurt on May 20, 2021 8:50:29 GMT
Happy to see more people jumping on the BrAEdboard & DIY! Congratulations on the good work! Ray Wilson's book is high on my wishlist for reading, I've built/used some of his designs from his excellent website already. In order to help with your minor problems, could you draw up a raw schematic of your build? It's always hard to see the connections with just a breadboard picture. I suppose it has something to do with your capacitors bias, but can't be sure. What I mean with that, is that its best to have a large resistor going between virtual ground and the opamp side of your decoupling cap. This so your capacitors plate is 'standard charged' at 2.5V and it oscillates around 2.5V. Hard to see on the breadboard, I see you have made the 2.5V reference, but I'm not sure to which different points you connected it. A lot of the AE modular sounds will also be hard clipped at 2x amplification (no fear, it's not dangerous ), but I think you already have a pot set up as attenuator?
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Post by thehatghost on May 20, 2021 13:49:16 GMT
Hi Kurt,
Thanks for the help! Here's The Circuit Diagram to the best of my ability, with an added 1M resistor after the input cap to virtual ground (which solved the "having to touch it to get it started" problem):
The pot works well to attenuate an incoming triangle wave but doesn't have much effect on any of the other waveforms.
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Post by keurslagerkurt on May 20, 2021 14:04:28 GMT
Hi Kurt,
Thanks for the help!ย Here's The Circuit Diagram to the best of my ability, with an added 1M resistor after the input cap to virtual ground (which solved the "having to touch it to get it started" problem):
The pot works well to attenuate an incoming triangle wave but doesn't have much effect on any of the other waveforms.
Thanks for the drawing, looks good! Happy it worked for making the cap work consistently already. For the attenuation: your pot should also go to 2.5V instead of to 0V. This because you want your attenuation to be 'symmetrical' around your Waves oscillation. Not 100% sure it will solved the problem, but it's the only thing i can think of for now.
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Post by keurslagerkurt on May 20, 2021 14:08:11 GMT
Or wait, could it be that there is something incorrect about the drawing? I suppose you feed the opamp with 0V (ground) on its negative power rail and 5V on the positive? And that you connect your + terminal to 2.5V in some way? Seems like it is not connected as an inverting opamp on first glance. i think you basically want this but with 2.5V instead of 0V connected to the + terminal
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Post by thehatghost on May 20, 2021 18:10:54 GMT
I think you're right, its some kind of Buffer Follower or something. I'm going to play around with it and try to figure our exactly what I did. Thanks!
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Post by thehatghost on May 22, 2021 21:12:50 GMT
Hi All,
Here is a circuit diagram revision for the "Triangle Buddy" now that I've had a chance to untangle my initial design (which had something weird going on that I still need to check out)
I believe this is what one would call an audio "Inverting Buffer / Amplifier" using only pieces from the Braedboard kit. It works well with the triangle / saw tooth waveforms for a boost, doesn't seem to do very much for the square wave (also works with Wavetables).
I'll do a breadboard diagram when I get a chance, in the meantime here's the circuit diagram.
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Post by pt3r on May 23, 2021 10:18:59 GMT
So I'm getting confused, is this an amplifier that also inverts your wave form? Do you have some audio demo?
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Post by thehatghost on May 23, 2021 23:04:07 GMT
It's really just the diy / Braedboard not-quite-as-good version of something like the 2 Signal Amp module, a signal amplifier that comes in handy for something like the triangle wave or external audio.
Technically the amp is wired in an "inverting" configuration, which just means it flips the waveform. You can't hear it really, but if you experiment and combine it with the original signal then they would cancel each other out. ( I would like to confirm all of this but don't have an oscilloscope).
Thanks again Kurt for the Help!
Here's a video to show it off.
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Post by keurslagerkurt on May 24, 2021 7:37:26 GMT
So I'm getting confused, is this an amplifier that also inverts your wave form? Do you have some audio demo? The most stable analog buffer/amp configuration always inverts the waveform, but the human ear can't hear that unless you combine the original uninverted signal with the inverted one. Stuff like mixers, fx,.. often have multiple inversions inside, just as a side product of all buffer stages. thehatghost great job! Congratulations on the succesfull design ๐ The square wave in AE is already at the loudest possible volume, because it oscillates between 0 - 5V. So it's expected that you won't be able to hear any amplification. And on the original prototype: if it sounds good, i'd keep it ๐
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Post by keurslagerkurt on May 24, 2021 7:45:56 GMT
thehatghostCircuit diagram makes a lot more Sense to me know, this is indeed an inverting amplifier where you dial in the gain with your pot. Looks good! I was wondering two last things: - your input and output Cap are different, is there a reason for that? - your voltage divider leading to the + input of the opamp is 100k/47k, how did you pick those values in relation to eachother?
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Post by pt3r on May 24, 2021 8:11:46 GMT
So I'm getting confused, is this an amplifier that also inverts your wave form? Do you have some audio demo? The most stable analog buffer/amp configuration always inverts the waveform, but the human ear can't hear that unless you combine the original uninverted signal with the inverted one. Stuff like mixers, fx,.. often have multiple inversions inside, just as a side product of all buffer stages. I did not know that, thanks for your explanation. It makes indeed sense that the human ear won't hear the difference between a waveform and its inversion, except when you sum them together for it's the sound of silence....
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Post by thehatghost on May 24, 2021 20:35:53 GMT
thehatghost Circuit diagram makes a lot more Sense to me know, this is indeed an inverting amplifier where you dial in the gain with your pot. Loo I was wondering two last things: - your input and output Cap are different, is there a reason for that? - your voltage divider leading to the + input of the opamp is 100k/47k, how did you pick those values in relation to each other? - The different Caps were in the original Ray Wilson design so I ended up using them to port over to AE modular. I just tried a a quick substitution test swapping out the 10uf cap for the 100nf cap on the output stage, and to my ears there seems to be less noise and a little better bass response using the 10uf Cap. It may also be the difference between electrolytic and ceramic caps as opposed to the value? I have been building some LM386 battery powered amps and most of those designs have a large electrolytic Cap in series with the speaker output so I figure there must be something to it.
- The voltage divider was a guess because I thought that a 2:1 ratio halved the voltage, which is actually incorrect. (Thanks for pointing this out). It should be two 100K resistors in series to get 2.5V reference voltage. I just made the switch and now it's sounds better.
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Post by keurslagerkurt on May 24, 2021 21:04:08 GMT
Interesting on the caps! It makes sense that a bigger Cap let's through more bass, but i'd expect that the input Cap would filter out that bass already in the first place. Ofc i trust both your ears & Ray Wilson, but it's suprising nonetheless! Regarding the noise: ceramic caps introduce noise when working with oscillations (eg audio but also other stuff), I've built guitar pedals with just ceramics in the past and some are really unuseable because of that (also because eg a fuzz pedal van have x50 gain or something, so you just amplify the noise too).
Regarding the resistors: that was also my thought, but even better that you figured out yourself!
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Post by thehatghost on May 24, 2021 21:46:35 GMT
Parts List (all in the Braedboard kit) 1- MCP602 OpAmp
4 - resistors at 100k Ohms (brown, black, yellow, gold) 1 - Ceramic Capacitor at 100nF (number 104) 1 - Electrolytic Capacitor at 10uF The Double Potentiometer (we'll only be using one side) 6 - Jumper Cables
Breadboard Diagram is below:
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